How Do We Select The Fabrics We Use?
Part of the reason we do what we do is because we love beautiful cloth. Its nuance, the way it moves in the light, its touch (or handle), its individuality. Then having it made into a finished made to measure suit, seeing it take shape, sitting upon the client’s shoulders – that’s a real moment. And it always keeps us coming back for more.
For us the best suiting cloths are woven in the UK. The depth, personality, and very importantly, the performance are all attributes that are essential when making up a suit. And we’ve always found that the fabrics which tick all these boxes happen to be woven here in the UK. It also helps that through the years we’ve developed very special relationships with the people who run these mills (see here). They now know what we like, and thank God, how to make it.
How our suits and garments perform out ‘in the wild’ is super-integral to us and what we do. Simply put, it’s one of the key reasons a client will come back to us for suit number two and then three and four. For this, we need to know the cloth can handle life in the real world. Thankfully all the mills we work with have hundreds of years under their belt and know what they are doing.
In saying this, we also know that certain cloths are better suited for different purposes. For example, if you’re after a hardy, robust everyday suit, generally a worsted wool is what we recommend. A wool with thicker fibres, than say, a softer merino, it’s more resistant to an everyday kind of beating. If you’re after a similar hardy cloth, but you run a little hot, we recommend a high twist wool. A cloth woven with twisted yarns that give it a springiness, which allows it to keep its shape and not crease, whilst also having an open weave, which makes it super breathable. Perfect for a hot day.
Softer Cloths
The softer cloths mentioned, such as soft merinos, flannels and wool/silks, on the main are great for making a more ‘occasional suit’. Not a workshorse, but a suit for weddings, partés, important meetings and such!
And we can’t bring up warmer weather without mentioning linen – the archetypal summer suit. Beautiful in its own skin. Because of it’s nature to crease up, it tends not to be the right option for more formal occasions – but in our eyes a navy blue linen made to measure suit is a staple for every wardrobe!
Get In Contact – How To Order Your Made To Measure Suit
If you have any questions about an order, or if you have any other enquiries, please contact us at: [email protected]. Alternatively, use our form to book your appointment.